Taipu de Fora - English Version — Virginia Costa Galeria

Taipu de Fora- Low Tide

My only concern during these holidays was knowing when the tide would be low. Armed with my snorkel and a spaghetti float (which my friend kindly bought so I could explore without fear), I went out barefoot, happy as can be, discovering a new little corner each day.

I also took long walks, going farther and farther each day.

I loved it because the sand there is firm — perfect for walking. The natural pools of Taipu are the main attraction — true open-air aquariums filled with colorful fish.

All you need is a diving mask to spend hours observing that silent and magical world. Our Airbnb was right in front of the natural pools — now I’m spoiled for good!

Taipu de Fora is located on the Maraú Peninsula, in Bahia, and it’s one of those places that still has the soul of a fishing village.

The sea is crystal-clear, the palm trees generous, and time seems to slow down — just the way we like it.

Duda Mendonça's house
But don’t be fooled: behind those palm trees hide stunning houses on huge lots and charming inns.
Pousada Encanto da Lua
It’s a curious balance between rustic and refined — between sandy feet and a glass of wine at sunset. I met a couple of friends at the GRU airport, and we flew to Ilhéus. From there, we rented a car and spent the night in Itacaré. We arrived in Ilhéus late in the afternoon, and people had warned us that the road to the peninsula was bad. Everything is harder at night. In Itacaré, we stayed in a cozy little inn.
Breakfast instantly put us in Bahia mode: couscous and tapioca stuffed with dried beef and plantains.
Itacaré
We walked around the main street, full of restaurants and little shops — everything very rustic.
Dendê
Can’t say we really got to know the city, though.
The road to Maraú was unpaved, full of potholes — not great, but not the end of the world either. You don’t need a 4x4, but a higher car helps.
On our way back, the road was being leveled and was much better. Just don’t go if it’s raining too hard, hehe.

🏠 Accommodation

We rented two downstairs suites in a beachfront house through Airbnb. And here goes a 70+ tip: rent a place with a kitchen! Having to eat out for every meal made the trip much more expensive — and besides, cooking something small at home is always nice, right?

On the other hand, it was a good excuse to try many restaurants. I visited several inns near the beach — I’ll make a separate post just about those.

🍤 Restaurants Worth Returning To

Pousada Marau Restaurant

Funny thing, we found it by accident while looking for the bromeliad trail.

The owner, Fátima, and the friendly bartender Renato (who made fantastic drinks) welcomed us warmly.

Restaurante da Pousada Marau

The first day, we had an unforgettable moqueca. We went back later for grilled octopus, among other delicious dishes.

The meal was divine — especially because of a coconut dessert unlike any I’ve ever tasted. Next to it is the Ponta da Baleia condo, formed by loyal old guests of the inn. It’s a very special place with a long-time clientele.

Noêmia’s Restaurant –

Restaurante da Noêmia - Taipu de Fora

Simple, homemade food that completely won us over.

Breakfast was basic but perfectly done.

For lunch, the rice with octopus was excellent — and the crispy fries were out of this world.

Pure childhood flavor, pure comfort.

Bar das Meninas

What a lovely spot!

Taipu de Fora - Bar das Meninas

Right in front of the natural pools, everything is well organized and beautifully maintained.

Bar das Meninas - Taipu de Fora

There are different types of seating areas — it’s spotless.

I’d say it’s the best bar/restaurant in the region.

The food is delicious and nicely presented.

Lagoa e Mar

We loved the shrimp pastéis and the service from Aída. Everything came with a hibiscus flower!

It’s located by the Cassange Lagoon, with fresh water.

At first, the reddish water feels strange, but then you just surrender to it.

They have good facilities and spotless restrooms.

Lagoa do Cassange - Restaurante Lagoa e Mar

The lagoon is very shallow — you can walk right to the middle.

The place is super relaxing.

The access road is “Maraú style” — you never know if you’ll get stuck…

and yes, we did! But with these friends, adventures are never in short supply — it was quickly solved.

Bar da Iolanda

Highly recommended by locals. At first it looks odd. Avoid weekends, and go during high tide — that’s when it shines.

Bar da Iolanda, Campinho, Península de Marau

Tables are literally in the water! You eat a little, swim a little, and come back to your table — crazy but fun.
The breaded shrimp was divine, the fried dourado not so much. Located in Campinho.

The entrance isn’t very inviting, but it’s definitely worth it for the unique experience.

Cabana Rainha Mar

Taipu de Dentro - Cabana Rainha do Mar

In Taipu de Dentro (so, no waves).

I loved it — I could stay in the water while waiting for lunch!

It’s a great spot for children. The little village of Taipu de Dentro is charming, especially compared to Barra Grande.

Taipu de Dentro - Península de Marau

Everything there looked more cared for — they even have paved streets!

They say it gets crowded on weekends.
We probably loved it even more because it was September — mild weather and few people. In high summer, they say it’s quite different.

Jardim Secreto Café e Viveiro

What lovely people!

It is a café inside a plant nursery, with some pretty crafts on display too.

Perfect for an afternoon coffee and cake.

My friend even bought a seedling of a funny plant called cotonete (“cotton swab plant”).

🌅 Things to Do

The plan is to go out at night in Barra Grande.

Don’t even bother with shoes — flip-flops only! It’s all sand.

We went a few times, though probably too early — things there start happening later, I guess.

There’s a street with some charming stalls — I loved it.

We saw unusual fruits.

And even a baiana selling acarajé! (They’re rare these days.)

A few artisans.

A tiny old church, and many restaurants with live music — sometimes too loud for our taste.

Kids practicing capoeira — a beautiful initiative and fun to watch.

One shop caught our attention: Grupo Raízes
Gorgeous pieces mixing ceramics and natural fibers.

We loved everything.

Another popular one is Fabiani Julianni — she owns three lovely shops and works with baroque pearls and silver. Very tasteful.

And of course, chocolate — this is the Cocoa Coast, after all!

The chocolate here is real, made with true cocoa butter.

🏖️ Praia dos Algodões

We stopped there on the way and I was amazed — very few people, super rustic. I heard it’s crowded on weekends.

It was our first taste of the sea — and what a paradise!

We stayed at Obaê Restaurant, a rustic gem.

Tried the fried pititinga fish — delicious!

And discovered cocoa honey juice, served frozen — smooth, light, and naturally sweet.

Younger people get there by ATV. Actually, I saw several elderly couples on ATVs too — gave me chills just imagining it!

There are also jardineiras (open-air buses), but they’re infrequent. We were glad we had our car.

🌇 Ponta do Mutá

Watching the sunset there is like a local tradition.

We crossed a beach club just to take a look — it was crowded and lively! I managed to snap some photos. The sunset is gorgeous, but we didn’t stay long — too many kids and loud music. Not for us.

🧳 What to Bring

I didn’t need insect repellent — zero mosquitoes (at least this time of year).
Flies, yes — but locals burn coffee powder on the tables when that happens.

Bring a flashlight and cash. There are no banks or ATMs, and without internet, no PIX! Most places do take cards, though.

When it rains hard, power goes out. It happened once — we waited 4 hours, but in other places, it took 9 to return.

Claro doesn’t work, but most establishments offer free Wi-Fi.

Tap water looks a bit “muddy,” but it’s fine — just not for drinking, of course.

🌺 Final Thoughts — Reality and Beauty

Yes, I tried to make my photos show only the paradise side — because the beach deserves it.
Travel photography is curation.
Reality is, not everything looks as perfect as it does online.

Like in many Brazilian paradises, the “B-side” of infrastructure is real: the access is not the easiest, and some local constructions are unfinished or still developing.

If you expect total luxury and perfection, you might want to adjust your expectations.
But to me — it’s absolutely worth it.

Do as I did: forget about the infrastructure for a while, and just admire the beach.

It’s by far the most beautiful I’ve ever seen.
And when I return home with sandy feet and a wet swimsuit in my suitcase — that’s how I know I had a great time.